Maison Martin Margiela Spring 1999 Ready to Wear
Pierre Cardin glasses, made in France, ca. 1970s
Aesthetic prostheses are plastic sculptures that simulate parts of the body; they cover up the missing part and obtain aesthetic balance.
Modelling AlienationThe temporal relays of modernity were played out in Alexander McQueen’s Spring–Summer 1999 collection that explored the relationship between the 19th century Arts and Crafts movement and what the called the ‘hard edge of technology of textiles’. Segueing between pre-industrial craft imagery and post-industrial urban alienation, the collection combined moulded leather body corsets with frothy white lace, punched wooden fan skirts and Regency striped silk. The show was opened by the athlete and model Aimee Mullins in a pair of hand-carved prosthetic legs designed by McQueen (the model was born without shin bones and had her legs amputated below the knee at age of one), and closed by Shalom Harlow who revolved like a music-box doll on a turntable as her white dress was sprayed acid green and black by two menacing industrial paint sprayers which suddenly came to life on the catwalk.
Alexander McQueen, No. 13, Spring–Summer 1999
Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness by Caroline Evans, Yale University Press
Magazine: CR Fashion Book #3 Fall/Winter 2013
Photographer: Anthony Maule
Models: Senaite Gidey, Malaika Firth